deborah tuberville

With a moody, after-the-deluge Western theme, Turbeville builds a narrative that is at once mysterious, suspenseful, and sensual. Turbeville expanded fashion photography’s horizons beyond its mercantile remit into an ethereal, highly charged mix of portraiture, architecture, and landscape.

Her work’s abiding theme is the framing of the self in all its multiplicity and fragmentation: “Feeling surreal and dislocated—it’s my favorite way to feel,” said Turbeville. Channeling the maestros of art cinema – Carné, Cocteau, and Tarkovsky – she infuses her photographs with an atmosphere that is enigmatically psychological.

She experimented with many photographic techniques. This explains the wild shifts in style in these slides. Someimes she would shoot with film, make a print, distress the print, then shoot it with color slide film and make a print from that.

Turbeville’s photographs appeared regularly from the 1970s onward in Zoom, French Camera, and American, French, and Italian Vogue. Her innovations in fashion photography have had an inestimable influence on fashion editorial and advertising as well as on the work of many leading artists.