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DIGITAL NEGATIVES for HAND APPLIED EMULSION
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Hand applied emulsion prints are made as contact print from
negatives that are the same size as the final print. Sunlight was historically
used as the light source because UltraViolet light is needed rather than the conventional light supplied
by an enlarger. Special high-output UltraViolet light boxes can also be
employed to give a more consistent and even exposure.
Full size negatives can be printed onto sheet film and processed just as
normal film, or negatives can be made digitally. This recipe details how
to make digital negatives in a few simple steps. |
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| WORKFLOW |
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create a greyscale
version of the photograph, properly adjusted BEFORE you apply the DigiNeg alterations!
• covert to greyscale using the Channel Mixer
• layer sharpen
• adjust the levels
apply a contrast curve
• add previsualization layers
• one for each medium, cyanotype, van dyke brown, etc.
• add a step wedge (optional)
flip horizontal
invert to negative
colorize to make a 'spectral density' negative
• apply output levels adjustments for the specific
emulsion
• add some texture (optional)
print the picture onto transparency film with
these settings
• apply these setting to other photos |
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| CREATE the B&W DIGITAL PICTURE |
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Use the Channel Mixer then and make all tonal adjustments. |
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| start |
with film or digital, a negative or print, b&w or
color |
| bring |
the source image into the computer |
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see any of several available "Scanning" documents |
| open |
the file in Photoshop |
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convert |
the color space to Adobe(RGB) 1998 |
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set |
the image size resolution to 300 ppi |
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rescale |
to appropriate picture size in inches |
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remove |
any black borders from Silver Prints |
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SAVE AS… |
immediately with another name |
| convert |
any color images into greyscale |
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use the Channel Mixer
see the "Greyscale
Conversion" pages for detailed recipes |
| sharpen |
using layer sharpen |
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see the "Layer Sharpen" page for more details |
| adjust |
the tonality to the desired appearance |
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set levels |
with an adjustment layer |
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adjust the endpoints to remove any empty tonal space |
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set curves |
with an adjustment layer |
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add more contrast than for a normal print |
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| ADD PREVISUALIZATION LAYERS |
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Consult the Previsualization Pages to get the exact recipes for various other sensitizers and toning treatments. |
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Use the FILL LAYER technique to render the picture Cyan. |
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| open |
the layers window window>layers or [F7] |
| create |
a new fill layer |
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use |
layer>new fill layer>solid color… |
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or pull down |
the new layer button to solid color… |
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Turn this layer on and off
to previsualize how the picture will look if printed using these sensitizers.
Make sure it is turned off when printing! |
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| INCLUDE a STEPWEDGE (optional) |
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Expand the Canvas and drag a Step Wedge picture file into your picture to use as a test strip when printing.
This has to be under all the adjustment layers that are about to be applied for it to be useful. |
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| FLIP the PICTURE |
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because the negative is turned face down to print emulsion
to emulsion. |
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| flip horizontal |
using image> rotate> flip horizontal |
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| INVERT the TONALITY |
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to make the picture into a negative.
use an Adjustment Layer so it can be turned off later to double-check you picture later.
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| add |
an adjustment layer> invert |
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| COLORIZE |
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to make a 'Spectral Density Negative' for better masking
capability.
Orange ink will actually block more UltraViolet light
than will black ink.
Use the same color for all emulsions
because this is the color that blocks Ultraviolet light
the best!
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| APPLY OUTPUT ADJUSTMENT
LAYERS |
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for a reduced tonal range for each emulsion.
There can be several Output Adjustment Layers, one for each emulsion
and these can be turned on and off separately as needed.
These should be the topmost layers in the stack
because the colorize layer will subtly alter the density
of the picture.
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The output levels first have to be adjusted so the actual tonal range of the picture is correct |
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The contrast now needs to be raised to make up for the reduced contrast of the liquid emulsions. |
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| lock |
the midtone value |
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by placing a control point dead center |
| raise |
the highlight intensity |
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by dragging a control point upward |
| lower |
the shadow intensity |
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by dragging a control point downward |
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These values may have to be adjusted differently for each individual
picture! |
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| ADD some TEXTURE (optional) |
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Traditional negatives are made on Litho film that is inherently grainy. |
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| PRINT the PICTURE |
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onto professional-grade Transparency Film. |
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| PRINTER SETTINGS for Digital Negatives |
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Print on a Canon ipf5100printer using Gloss Ink. |
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set the front panel controls first:
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| feed: |
sheet (not roll) |
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Backlit Film |
| media size: |
Letter/ 8.5"x11" (or whatever size you are using) |
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hit [ok] to load paper |
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status window will read: |
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Offline, Loading… |
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the paper will be drawn into the printer and loaded |
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wait for the status to read Online Letter |
| continue to the Export dialog box, explained in the next section |
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if you have access to another inkjet printer, that can be used as well |
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then set the Print Dialog Box specs in the Export Plug-in window: |
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| open |
the Export Plug-in for the Canon printers |
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use |
file> export> iPF5100 Print Plug-in… |
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| select |
Main tab |
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media type : |
Backlit Film |
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resolution: |
High Accuracy 600ppi |
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image bit to plug-in: |
High Gradation 8 bit |
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print mode: |
High (High Precision) |
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output profile: |
Auto (Color) |
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matching method: |
Relative Colorimetric |
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| select |
Page Setup tab |
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set : |
Enlarged/ Reduced Printing |
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scaling: |
100% |
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it is possible to rescale the print size here |
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but DO NOT enlarge more than 10%
(Photoshop does a better job) |
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media size : |
Letter (8.5 x 11") |
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orientation: |
Portrait or Landscape, as required |
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layout: |
Center of Output Media Size |
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position can be altered by dragging the image in the box |
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media source : |
Manual |
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| hit: |
[print] to proceed |
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or [return] key or [enter] key |
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if you have access to another inkjet printer, that can be used as well |
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| APPLY ADJUSTMENT LAYERS to OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS |
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Simply select ALL Adjustment layers and DRAG them to any other picture file.
Turn the appropriate layers on or off to Previsualize or Make a Negative.
You will most likely have to readjust the Channel Mixer to get the best B&W Conversion,
but all the other alterations are the same! This is even easier than creating an Action.
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| unstack |
the photographs to be used |
| select |
all adjustment layers in the finished photo |
| drag |
all layers to the other photograph |
| turn on / off |
whichever layers will display the desired effect |
| readjust |
the Channel Mixer to get the best B&W photo first |
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